Memphis and the Crossroads

We put the address for Elvis Presley RV Park, Memphis into the GPS and drove out of Nashville on a Sunday morning. We weren’t too far along when we realized we were a bit lost. It was about that time that we were stopped on a country road by the Police.

Perhaps we didn’t mention earlier but this state (Tennessee) is well and truly in the Bible Belt. The churches are many, no make that ridiculously many, every denomination, seemingly large and well attended, and that was the reason why we had been stopped. The local police are required to provide traffic management at the end of church services to allow people to leave and make way for the next congregation to arrive for the next service. This happens at a lot of the churches in the area and we saw at least 3 - 4 churches that big on that day. AMAZING!!

Another thing I should mention about the USA and particularly the south, because it feels so different from home, is that we are treated with respect, courtesy, and good manners all the time. Everyone calls us ‘sir’ and ‘ma’am’, they greet you with good morning and good evening on the street and they look you in the eye – even the children say “S’cuse me ma’am”. Attendants ask if we have found everything in the supermarkets, carry your packages, seat you in cafes and restaurants, smile and always try to engage us in conversation. There’s a lot to be said for giving people your undivided attention and time – even if it’s only for a minute or two – very meaningful acknowledgement of the worthiness and value of each individual.

OK – I’m off my bandwagon and back on the road to Memphis – thanks to the very helpful policeman and no thanks to Jill the GPS.

cotton fields
new appreciation of  scripture - 'white unto harvest'

We passed many cotton fields and rice paddocks along the way, replacing the corn in the north, arriving in Memphis just on dusk. As we booked in a siren began to sound in the street. Our campground hosts said, “Oh! That’s just the tornado warning siren. We should be OK here but if it gets too bad, just go to the shower block. That’s what we will be doing.” So, we set up our RV, no awning, just the basics and then looked on the internet to see what the real story was. The sirens continued, and Police and Fire Service also joined in so it sounded like it might be very serious and it was. West Memphis was directly in the path of a Category 3 Tornado – enough to cause serious damage to a motorhome.

So we had some prayer, had some dinner and waited… The rains came bucketing down most of the night, but the winds did not come and by morning, the sky was beautiful clear and blue.

Inside Sun City Studios

Recording Room - Sun City Studios

Our day in Memphis was jam-packed. Firstly, we took a ‘free’ bus to Sun City Studios. You enter what looks like a little café and souvenir store, which doubles as a museum. Of course we took the guided tour where we learnt that Sun City originated when a local DJ realized he was not playing music recorded by black people so he opened the studio with that in mind. Obviously he also took on paid work, which meant that he would record anybody’s music, but gave many black musicians an opportunity to record and so have their music played on radio.

Johno was in his element. It is only a little place but we saw where Elvis Presley recorded his first record as well as many others (Johnny Cash, Roy Orbisson, Jerry Lee Lewis, Howlin’ Wolf) got to start their musical careers. In three small rooms the birth of rock’n’roll / rockabilly began, and even today they are using the same microphones, the same studio, and the same sound booth as when it was first set up way back in the 1950’s. So many musicians and artists that we know and love have recorded in this studio.

From there we headed to the Gibson Guitar Factory. Johno has said he might even buy a guitar. I said he had to promise to learn how to play it and he agreed. But folks, sorry to disappoint you, no guitar was purchasedLL 

They were so expensive but beautiful instruments. The tour was extremely informative. It is a working factory so you could watch them making the guitars as you toured around.   

The Rock & Soul Museum, Memphis was developed by the Smithsonian Institution to present a chronology of the rebellious hearts that shaped what is known as ‘The Memphis Sound” - from the pioneers through all the legends until today. In their quest to identify the roots of American Music, they discovered that all roads led to Memphis and therefore was the place to have such a museum.

The exhibition is introduced by a 15minute film presentation, giving an overview of the development of ‘rock & soul’ and then you are on you own. Armed with headsets and a hand control you proceed at your own pace through the many exhibits - from earliest times of cotton plantations and gospel music to plantation blues to recorded music to Motown. The exhibits were both visually and audibly enlightening, and we loved that music accompanied each one with extended playtime if you chose. It is a very personal way to take a tour and many’s the time, you would be rockin’ away with your music and headset and if you looked up, someone else would be rockin’ away in their own little world. We would just smile, nod and keep on going. It’s the first museum I’ve ever been in where nearly everyone was swaying, tapping a foot, bopping, singing and or dancing. Really funJ

The museum boasts an amazing collection of music memorabilia as well as authentic ‘lifestyle’ displays showing how people lived, what they wore and what they did for entertainment down thru the generations. Several hours was passed in total enjoyment whilst learning. GOOD TIMES  J

Ducks. If you know me well, you would know that I have a special love of all things ducks. They have a significant and special place in my memories of my much loved and often missed mother, and as well - ducks just amuse me! So when, during our travels, we were told about the famous march of The Peabody Hotel Ducks in Memphis, it was another one of those “what the” moments.  On arrival in Memphis, we knew it would be a MUST DO thing and Johno would indulge my ducky inclination.

We arrived early (2.30pm) to see the march and already there was standing room only. It was a Monday afternoon and you would think that might mean a smallish crowd but in fact there would have been about 200 people waiting to see the ducks.

It all started a long time ago when someone put ducks in the fountain in the main foyer of the Peabody Hotel as a joke. But the ducks seemed to enjoy themselves and according to folklore they attracted quite a crowd so management decided they should remain part of the foyer for years to come. The ducks are trained and only have a three-month term of employment. They march from the Plantation Roof on the top of the hotel each morning at 11.00am, down the elevator, along the red carpet in the lobby and into the pond around the fountain. At 3.00pm they march back to their ducky suite in the rooftop. By the way, you can google this if you wish and just for the record, the Peabody is very plush, 5 star and has the most beautiful bathrooms – marble, gold and monogrammed handtowels -  very swish, methinks!!

Beale Street - home of the blues - was one of Johno’s must see and experience. This place is like Mecca is to the Moslems for all blues lovers, it’s the origins of blues. There are lots of street performers, buskers and hawkers. The bars, restaurants and barbeques all have stages or performance areas to provide local talent with an outlet to perform, display their merchandise, along with all the touristy stuff as well 

[t-shirts, shot glasses, stubbie holders, etc - so much junk] .

 

We just wandered up and down the street listening to the sounds and taking in vibe and the aromas. There were Hendrix imitators, Stevie Ray Vaughan wannabes, as well as good acoustic blues to make you want to park yourself a while and get into the groove. We found this little bar and ordered barbeque and enjoyed the night chillin’ to some very nice original stuff and some old favourites. BEALE STREET . !!!!!! YEAH – says Johno.

Food – when we were in Nashville we met a guy who told us he and some mates travel to Memphis every year for a barbeque weekend. They eat barbeque breakfast, lunch and dinner for four days – tasting and ranking the food as they go. So we went to investigate ‘barbeque’.

It’s easier to say what it isn’t – it isn’t steaks and snags on the barbie. It’s every type of meat, even alligator (but no lamb) and ribs cooked over flame, smoked, pot-roasted, pressure-cooked and served with ‘special’ sauces  or dry rubs – hot, spicy, smoky, sweet, hickory, whatever!! And it’s really up to the individual what’s the best. Well, that’s my take on it anyway. Some of it was so yum, so was ho hum, My favourites – pulled pork sandwich in Niagara Falls and pork ribs in Memphis.

SO! that was Memphis in a day. We didn’t get to tour Graceland but we did see it lit up at night (very pretty) and truly, there is Elvis memorabilia everywhere so we felt we had seen enough.

Our next stop was Clarksdale, the land where the blues began, where Johno was keen to visit the Delta Blues museum and also to see the crossroads where legend says that Robert Johnson sold his soul to the devil so he could become a full-time blues musician and a really good one, at that. The Delta Blues Museum has a large collection of Blues artifacts, including musical instruments, recordings, sheet music, posters and a whole lot more and that is where Johno got his next fix on blues history and culture.

Me? I went wandering in Clarksdale and surprise! surprise! I found a coffee shop / gift and jewellery store where I enjoyed a quiet cuppa and cinnamon scroll (baked fresh that morning) and just whiled away an hour or two on my own.

The Crossroads - Clarksdale

Then we were off to find the Crossroads - the intersection of Highways 61 and 49 in Clarksdale – for a quick photo (there’s nothing much there really) – and then hit the road again, heading south towards Jackson.

Along the way, we were stopped twice by Police who were conducting random license checks and vehicle inspections. We had noticed that we passed at least two prisons and were told later that there had been some escapees missing – glad we didn’t find them!

We stayed the night at Holmes County State Park where we again met some friendly campers who visited us that evening and followed our journey via the Mac Book and the photo library.  We had a great evening. We had plans to hit the road early next day but I woke up in excruciating pain in my shoulder, arm and hand. There was numbness, swelling and weakness so we prayed and I rested and went to bed for the day. It was no better the next day so we headed to Jackson (thank you Francis for your timely advice) to the university hospital for a check up.

Five hours, $350.00, an ECG, an ultrasound, a BIG needle, and some more heavy drugs for the road and they sent us on our way. The diagnosis was pinched nerve or partial dislocation on the shoulder – nothing confirmed – and the treatment seemed to work (that and prayer) as I gradually improved over the next 24hours.

We drove out of Jackson in the madness of rush–hour traffic and found the very quaint Percy Quin State Park near McComb, Mississippi about an hour south where we stayed the night.

We had a booking in New Orleans for the next four nights and were keen to get there! Stay tuned for the next installment of our exciting adventures in Louisiana.

Niagara Falls to Nashville

sunset - stonewall jackson lake

It’s been three, four, five weeks (I started this 3 weeks ago) since we left Niagara Falls and started to make our way south. There are thousands of miles to travel to get back to San Diego for our Legendary Rhythm and Blues Cruise but before we get there we have some other stops to make, some planned and some not.

Good old Freddie the RV hasn’t missed a beat - so far we have done just over 9,000 miles, seen 19 US states and three Canadian provinces. People we meet are astounded, envious, and many want to join us. We keep saying – it’s not hard, just follow your nose, take good advice from those you meet and put all you do to God in prayer. So far, it’s workingJ

on river cruisee
Stonewall Jackson Lake
campsites in background

We have taken our time driving down through Pennsylvania to West Virginia where we set up camp at Stonewall Jackson State Park for a few days. The ranger gave us their ‘premium’ site right on the lake. It is a beautiful campground but more than that, it has a 5 star resort on the grounds and all campers can use the facilities. Very fancy my friends, and the most endearing feature for me was the lovely Adirondack rocking chairs everywhere so one could just sit and while away the day – which we did for a couple of days. I’d love to have some of those chairs back home. There is also a top grade golf course where you could see deer and turkeys, and lots of other recreation activities. We took the bikes off the back of the RV and went riding to check it all out and soon made acquaintance with Carol and Jim across the way. They were so friendly, even insisted on lending us their car so we could drive over to the resort to take the complimentary sunset lake cruise.

reflections on lake

Johno also met some other camping folk and had quite a funny conversation. They knew he had an accent and asked where he was from. When he told them he was from Australia, one old-timer said, “Well you be the first person I ever met from Australia, so set you down and tell me all about what brings you to West Virginia.” Needless to say, Johno was missing for some time and dinner was late that night. I wish we could put their accent into words. All I can say is that we sho ‘re heading south.

Our next stop was Mammoth Caves. Another one of those treasures, when someone just says, “Well since you’re heading that way, you should go and see ……”

We drove down through Kentucky, past lots of horse ranches and bourbon distilleries – surprising since Kentucky is a mostly ‘dry’ state. The highways are amazing, all dual carriageway divided roads with plenty of traffic all the time, good rest stops and 70 miles an hour speed limit. Not that we ask Freddie to travel at that speed, he just tootles along at 50 – 60 mile an hour. 

entry to Mammoth Caves

Mammoth Caves is a world heritage site, a part of the Green River valley and hilly country of south central Kentucky. It is the world's longest known cave system, with more than 390 miles explored. We took a two hour historical tour that followed about two miles of the caves – mostly we could stand up but some places were really tight – both height and width - and there were about 500 stairs to climb as well. Very dark – it has not been exposed like the Jenolan Caves, NSW - and lighting is minimal. We were led by a great tour guide who explained how humans have been using the caves for hundreds of years, beginning with the native Indians through to early settlers who mined the caves for nitrates to make gun powder. She made it all so interesting – we are learning all the time.

a little glimpse of the fall

It is autumn (the fall) over here and although we’re too far south to see the beautiful colours of changing leaves that you would expect to see in the north, we can see subtle changes in the landscape. Perhaps we will get to see some more as we get into colder weather.

Leaving Mammoth Caves, our next stop was Nashville, Tennessee where we would meet up with an old friend.

Heather came to Nashville some 13 years ago on a songwriting contract. She lives just out of Nashville in a town called Franklin. We spent a week there, renewing friendships, sharing Aussie barbeque dinners, our news of family and friends, and generally enjoying each other’s company. To be honest, it was a good feeling to be in a house for a while although we still slept in the RV.


Not only is Heather a songwriter but a very talented teacher and she has both a recording studio and a small school established in the top story of her house. The school is 'the' best resourced I have ever seen, with teaching materials, puzzles, books and play equipment for all ages. Currently she has three lovely, well manned little boys who come to see Mis Heather each day. They can all read (at ages 3,4, and 5), are very well behaved and each morning they would come and find us to say, "good morning mr jarno, good morning miss wendy" with big smiles on their faces, eager to go to school. If I needed to have my children taught in Nashville, Heather would be my only choice. She is so diligent and comprehensive, she turns everything into a learning opportunity for her boys.

I like these words - note to Johno!

art & craft in Franklin

Franklin is known for its beautiful heritage homes and buildings and quaint gift, craft and funky shops. We loved just wandering around looking at all the lovely homewares and crafts. There is one shop called Philosophy (google it) selling mostly hand-made goods from third world countries and all the profits go back to the people who made them. Although not specifically a ‘religious’ store, bible principles and ethics and promotion of social conscience are the backbone of this beautiful store full of eclectic clothing, jewellery and homewares.

Whilst on our ‘window-shopping’ stroll we met up with six of the most colourful, happy, friendly ladies you would ever meet. They are all well over 60, beautifully dressed, coiffed and made-up and wearing only purple and red clothes and hats – just gorgeous. Proud members of the Red Hat Society, they celebrate their age, their independence, their attitude and their curves. I just loved their upbeat approach to life and living. They meet monthly for lunch and an afternoon of fun. Look out girls! we might have to start a club of our own – but why wait till we’re sixty. Make sure you send a comment if you want to join the ‘club’. Ha ha!!

We did finally get to Nashville, having rented a car as traffic is mayhem and driving the RV would have been madness.

one of Charlie Daniel's guitars - note patriotism

We went to a live radio show at the Downtown Presbyterian Church. It’s a really interesting building architecturally, and during the Civil War it was seized and used as a hospital. So it was fitting that the show “Singing Down the Pain” featured many old gospel songs of remembrance of the music and stories arising from the most deadly war in U.S. history. The storyline was sobering, and professional musicians gave a sense of the anticipation of justice and peace; the slaves' longing for freedom; the parents' grief for the son no longer at the family table; the soldiers' yearning for home; the reformers' passion to learn war no more. It was a very emotional performance and gave us some more understanding of the history of this country. Songs you might recognise included Motherless Child, When the Saints Go Marching In, Dixieland, Swing Low Sweet Chariot, Glory Glory Hallelujah and even protest songs by Dylan and others.

The audience, maybe 1,000 people, was obviously moved by the performances and many a tear was shed.

Ryman Theatre

Of course, we also visited the Ryman Theatre, which was also originally built in 1880 as a church – the Union Gospel Tabernacle.  The Ryman is world famous for its acoustics, and for many years was the home of the Grand Ole Opry (GOO) Live Radio Show. Time was against us and we didn’t get to the new GOH House but we did get to see a number of displays, music stores, displays and museums including Charlie Daniels Museum, Jimmy Buffett’s Margaritaville and the Honky Tonks on Beale Street. Every type of music, not just country, is played in the venues and it is all LOUD and not very good.

Shopping in Nashville - There were cowboy boots, cowboy hats, belt buckles, guitars, banjos, ukeles, harps, etc, etc and every imaginable souvenir for sale. Not having a home to come back to has been great for influencing what we buy so no junky souvenirs from Nashville!!

Aussie catch-up with Nan

Also while we were there, good timing and some clever communications (thank goodness for FB and i-phones) allowed us to meet up with another friend. Well Nan is the sister of our special Aussie friend Paulo and as we were stomping the same ground at the same time we made the effort to meet up. Tootsie’s was the meeting place but we went elsewhere for some lunch and a good old Aussie catch-up.  It was so nice to make that connection after 4 months away from home and only having come across some 15 – 20 Aussies along the way.

So if you are reading this and feel inclined, we appreciate any comments you wish to make, or news you want to share, email us at yojowen@gmail.com or find Wendy on FB. It can be lonely on the road with minimal news from family and friends.

downtown Nashville - honky tonks

inside Ryman

Nashville City