Niagara Falls to Nashville

sunset - stonewall jackson lake

It’s been three, four, five weeks (I started this 3 weeks ago) since we left Niagara Falls and started to make our way south. There are thousands of miles to travel to get back to San Diego for our Legendary Rhythm and Blues Cruise but before we get there we have some other stops to make, some planned and some not.

Good old Freddie the RV hasn’t missed a beat - so far we have done just over 9,000 miles, seen 19 US states and three Canadian provinces. People we meet are astounded, envious, and many want to join us. We keep saying – it’s not hard, just follow your nose, take good advice from those you meet and put all you do to God in prayer. So far, it’s workingJ

on river cruisee
Stonewall Jackson Lake
campsites in background

We have taken our time driving down through Pennsylvania to West Virginia where we set up camp at Stonewall Jackson State Park for a few days. The ranger gave us their ‘premium’ site right on the lake. It is a beautiful campground but more than that, it has a 5 star resort on the grounds and all campers can use the facilities. Very fancy my friends, and the most endearing feature for me was the lovely Adirondack rocking chairs everywhere so one could just sit and while away the day – which we did for a couple of days. I’d love to have some of those chairs back home. There is also a top grade golf course where you could see deer and turkeys, and lots of other recreation activities. We took the bikes off the back of the RV and went riding to check it all out and soon made acquaintance with Carol and Jim across the way. They were so friendly, even insisted on lending us their car so we could drive over to the resort to take the complimentary sunset lake cruise.

reflections on lake

Johno also met some other camping folk and had quite a funny conversation. They knew he had an accent and asked where he was from. When he told them he was from Australia, one old-timer said, “Well you be the first person I ever met from Australia, so set you down and tell me all about what brings you to West Virginia.” Needless to say, Johno was missing for some time and dinner was late that night. I wish we could put their accent into words. All I can say is that we sho ‘re heading south.

Our next stop was Mammoth Caves. Another one of those treasures, when someone just says, “Well since you’re heading that way, you should go and see ……”

We drove down through Kentucky, past lots of horse ranches and bourbon distilleries – surprising since Kentucky is a mostly ‘dry’ state. The highways are amazing, all dual carriageway divided roads with plenty of traffic all the time, good rest stops and 70 miles an hour speed limit. Not that we ask Freddie to travel at that speed, he just tootles along at 50 – 60 mile an hour. 

entry to Mammoth Caves

Mammoth Caves is a world heritage site, a part of the Green River valley and hilly country of south central Kentucky. It is the world's longest known cave system, with more than 390 miles explored. We took a two hour historical tour that followed about two miles of the caves – mostly we could stand up but some places were really tight – both height and width - and there were about 500 stairs to climb as well. Very dark – it has not been exposed like the Jenolan Caves, NSW - and lighting is minimal. We were led by a great tour guide who explained how humans have been using the caves for hundreds of years, beginning with the native Indians through to early settlers who mined the caves for nitrates to make gun powder. She made it all so interesting – we are learning all the time.

a little glimpse of the fall

It is autumn (the fall) over here and although we’re too far south to see the beautiful colours of changing leaves that you would expect to see in the north, we can see subtle changes in the landscape. Perhaps we will get to see some more as we get into colder weather.

Leaving Mammoth Caves, our next stop was Nashville, Tennessee where we would meet up with an old friend.

Heather came to Nashville some 13 years ago on a songwriting contract. She lives just out of Nashville in a town called Franklin. We spent a week there, renewing friendships, sharing Aussie barbeque dinners, our news of family and friends, and generally enjoying each other’s company. To be honest, it was a good feeling to be in a house for a while although we still slept in the RV.


Not only is Heather a songwriter but a very talented teacher and she has both a recording studio and a small school established in the top story of her house. The school is 'the' best resourced I have ever seen, with teaching materials, puzzles, books and play equipment for all ages. Currently she has three lovely, well manned little boys who come to see Mis Heather each day. They can all read (at ages 3,4, and 5), are very well behaved and each morning they would come and find us to say, "good morning mr jarno, good morning miss wendy" with big smiles on their faces, eager to go to school. If I needed to have my children taught in Nashville, Heather would be my only choice. She is so diligent and comprehensive, she turns everything into a learning opportunity for her boys.

I like these words - note to Johno!

art & craft in Franklin

Franklin is known for its beautiful heritage homes and buildings and quaint gift, craft and funky shops. We loved just wandering around looking at all the lovely homewares and crafts. There is one shop called Philosophy (google it) selling mostly hand-made goods from third world countries and all the profits go back to the people who made them. Although not specifically a ‘religious’ store, bible principles and ethics and promotion of social conscience are the backbone of this beautiful store full of eclectic clothing, jewellery and homewares.

Whilst on our ‘window-shopping’ stroll we met up with six of the most colourful, happy, friendly ladies you would ever meet. They are all well over 60, beautifully dressed, coiffed and made-up and wearing only purple and red clothes and hats – just gorgeous. Proud members of the Red Hat Society, they celebrate their age, their independence, their attitude and their curves. I just loved their upbeat approach to life and living. They meet monthly for lunch and an afternoon of fun. Look out girls! we might have to start a club of our own – but why wait till we’re sixty. Make sure you send a comment if you want to join the ‘club’. Ha ha!!

We did finally get to Nashville, having rented a car as traffic is mayhem and driving the RV would have been madness.

one of Charlie Daniel's guitars - note patriotism

We went to a live radio show at the Downtown Presbyterian Church. It’s a really interesting building architecturally, and during the Civil War it was seized and used as a hospital. So it was fitting that the show “Singing Down the Pain” featured many old gospel songs of remembrance of the music and stories arising from the most deadly war in U.S. history. The storyline was sobering, and professional musicians gave a sense of the anticipation of justice and peace; the slaves' longing for freedom; the parents' grief for the son no longer at the family table; the soldiers' yearning for home; the reformers' passion to learn war no more. It was a very emotional performance and gave us some more understanding of the history of this country. Songs you might recognise included Motherless Child, When the Saints Go Marching In, Dixieland, Swing Low Sweet Chariot, Glory Glory Hallelujah and even protest songs by Dylan and others.

The audience, maybe 1,000 people, was obviously moved by the performances and many a tear was shed.

Ryman Theatre

Of course, we also visited the Ryman Theatre, which was also originally built in 1880 as a church – the Union Gospel Tabernacle.  The Ryman is world famous for its acoustics, and for many years was the home of the Grand Ole Opry (GOO) Live Radio Show. Time was against us and we didn’t get to the new GOH House but we did get to see a number of displays, music stores, displays and museums including Charlie Daniels Museum, Jimmy Buffett’s Margaritaville and the Honky Tonks on Beale Street. Every type of music, not just country, is played in the venues and it is all LOUD and not very good.

Shopping in Nashville - There were cowboy boots, cowboy hats, belt buckles, guitars, banjos, ukeles, harps, etc, etc and every imaginable souvenir for sale. Not having a home to come back to has been great for influencing what we buy so no junky souvenirs from Nashville!!

Aussie catch-up with Nan

Also while we were there, good timing and some clever communications (thank goodness for FB and i-phones) allowed us to meet up with another friend. Well Nan is the sister of our special Aussie friend Paulo and as we were stomping the same ground at the same time we made the effort to meet up. Tootsie’s was the meeting place but we went elsewhere for some lunch and a good old Aussie catch-up.  It was so nice to make that connection after 4 months away from home and only having come across some 15 – 20 Aussies along the way.

So if you are reading this and feel inclined, we appreciate any comments you wish to make, or news you want to share, email us at yojowen@gmail.com or find Wendy on FB. It can be lonely on the road with minimal news from family and friends.

downtown Nashville - honky tonks

inside Ryman

Nashville City