The Lakes and Niagara Falls – Canada and USA

After clearing Canada customs at the border crossing and handing in our fruit and vegies, we stopped at the Ontario tourist office to collect some advice and a State Parks map. The staff recommended we stay at Chutes State Park that night, a journey of about two hours – that sounded reasonable so off we went.

Well, after travelling nearly 5 hours we arrived at Chutes Campground in time to set up just before dark - should check eh! and not take the words of sweet little tourism officers as gospel.

Whilst in Canada we lost all communications, phone and internet connection so we decided, over night, to hasten our plans and get to Niagara Falls to regain access to the world and book flights and accommodation in New York from Buffalo.

Vehicle Ferry to Tobermorey

Pretty lighthouse

We had heard about a ferry service across Lake Huron, so we thought “ Why not? That will be another new experience” so left Chutes early the next day and drove to Espanola. From there we headed south onto Manitoulin Island, the largest island set in fresh water in the world then to South Baymouth to catch the ferry.

On arrival at ferry terminal we discovered that to ensure our spot we should have pre-booked our passage ($25) and that , alas, all passages on the next ferry were booked but we could wait to see if standby places become available. It was a five hour wait for the next ferry and still no guarantee that we would get on. We could have back-tracked and driven for 8 hours but after weighing options decided to wait for next ferry. Oh, the advantages of dear old Freddie our RV.  We just settled down with a book and whiled away the time – a little nap – a lunch of fish & chips English Style – another nap, and then we were given a berth to take Freddie on board and settle on deck for the 2.5 hour journey across to Tobermorey watching the sun set on the Lake. A very pleasant and relaxing way to cover 400 miles – lighthouses, little islands, water birds – just special. After disembarking we headed south looking for gas and a place to bed down for the night. Finding a gas station, we were told about a rest area that was suitable and safe to bunk down, which we did.

Early next morning we hit the road all the way down thru the peninsula, quick brekky at Owen Sound and then onto Niagara Falls, Canada side. We got in about 1.30pm so had plenty of time to park Freddie and take the free shuttle to the falls.

Horseshoe Falls - left side

I’m not sure what I expected but nothing could have prepared me for THE most awesome site – the waters approaching the falls look so peaceful, just a few ripples, no rapids, no rushing mighty river, and then it just accumulates and drops over the cliffs like someone has picked up a huge bucket and poured it all at once. It took my breath away – the sound, the spray, the force, the rainbows and …… it never stops. 

These continuous almighty rushing waters dropping over the edge and falling way down below, and that, my friends, was only my first impression. We were on the Canada side of the falls looking down into the Horseshoe but there is so much more.

Maid of the Mist

The commercialism that surrounds many of the national parks and iconic natural wonders is unapologetic and this is no more evident than at Niagara Falls. Huge casinos and hotels, zip-lines, specially built walkways (that are removed every winter or they would just fall apart), the boat rides, and the hats, t-shirts, and every imaginable souvenir is on offer to tourists.

You would be pleased to know that we resisted most offers but did take a boat tour. More about that later.

view from Canadian Side

We spent one last night in Canada and next morning headed to Niagara Falls, NY, USA to get our New York travels sorted. We found a great campground, Cinderella – cute name eh? - with the most obliging manager who gave us a really good deal. Our stay was going to be complicated - we wanted to book in for a few days, then go exploring for a week, then come back and leave Freddie for a week while we went to NY, then we wanted to come back and stay for another week to enjoy the USA Falls and the fourth Niagara Falls Blues Festival. Pete, our new best friend, went out of his way to make sure all our needs were met.

So we booked in, got wifi, organised flights and accommodation in New York within our budget and timeframe, took a breath and thanked God – it seems our plans continue to be blessed.

After the arrangements were completed we packed ourselves and chattels into Freddie then intended on heading north to enjoy the lakes. But before we left we stumbled onto Niagara Outlet shopping precinct with 130 plus shops ---Wendy looked but didn’t spend. The objective was a scouting expedition because we were coming back after New York.

So later in the day continuing toward the Lake we travelled through quaint little towns and villages and thought of Janet and Jeff, our friends from home with a real liking for all things country. The landscape became more rural with farms growing, yes! you guessed it, more corn, small cropping with cabbages, squash (zucchini) and auburgine (eggplant) and orchards with apples and pears ready to pick, and all sorts of berries  - so we stopped and replenished the larder.

We were passing through Amish communities, made obvious by the old fashioned haystacks in the paddocks and roadside signs advising that we should ‘share the road’ with horse & buggy.

Sunset over lake Ontario

Lakeside Beach,
Lake Ontario

Finally we arrived at Lakeside Beach State Park on Lake Ontario and welcomed Park staff advice on their best campsite. It was just perfect with water views of the ocean-like lake but the water is fresh as it is in all the Great Lakes. Water as far as the eye could see across to the horizon where at night we could just see a hint of cities on the other side. We also saw huge ‘lakers’  - huge ships constructed for carry cargo on the Great Lakes – and lots of smaller boats, some fishing and some racing. In all, a beautiful vista with million dollar views.

Added to that, we had the best neighbours. Three couples camped across the way. When they discovered we were from Australia we were treated like extra-special guests. We shared stories around their campfires, the women took me to the Amish store and out to buy fresh corn and even a stop at a berry farm and Johno went exploring with the men. We went for bikes rides, and shared many laughs together.

New friends
Karen, Ed, Keith, Kathy, Dick, Ruth

The three women have been friends for years, two of them since their Girl Guide days. In their words, “the men just had to come along” so over the years they have met at all sorts of places and taken at least one holiday each year together. Kathy and Keith live in Canada while Ruth and Dick, Ed and Karen live stateside.

Waves on Lake Ontario
Hurricane Irene

As Hurricane Irene crossed into New York state, the winds across the lake got stronger and stronger, blowing up waves on the lake and shaking our RV on its wheels.  Our friends all packed up and went home. Johno looked at me and said, “Home’s a bit far way for us, we’ll just have to ride this out.” And that is what we did. All day Sunday the winds blew across the lake. We would go out for a short walk and check on how many campers remained. 
By day’s end, the winds began to drop and by Monday, everything was still again and it was time for us to move on.  

Our new friends had suggested we might like it at Letchworth State Park. They said it had some nice waterfalls and trails, and it was purported to be the Grand Canyon of the East. So we plotted it into the GPS and followed the very pretty route through little villages and quaint towns full of very typical American architecture (two storey houses with lots of little windows and decorative gables – mostly wooden but some rock and brick). 




They all look at little different and as it was only one week before Labor Day weekend the American flag flew proudly in many, many front gardens. It seemed like it was expected thing to do – fly a flag.

We are getting quite familiar with State and National Parks over here. They set a very good standard, the layout is nearly always the same with loops of 15 – 20 campsites per loop designed to give everyone a reasonable measure of privacy, flushing toilets, clean hot showers, and every campsite has a table and chairs and a fire pit.

Middle Falls
Letchworth Park

Glen Iris Inn

Upper Falls under rail line
Letchworth Park

Letchworth National Park is pretty. It was late summer when we were there and we could see that the leaves are just starting to change colour. I’m sure it will look magnificent in another 4 weeks. The drive through the park was relaxing and the views spectacular. The upper, middle and lower falls are all very picturesque as is the gorgeous historical Glen Iris Inn, which sits gracefully on the edge of the middle falls.

Not sure about the claim about the Grand Canyon of the East (haven’t seen the Grand Canyon yet!!) but certainly there is a very deep gorge gouged out over time by huge amounts of water flowing through it. 


We watched some hawks catching the thermals over the canyon for ages, they make flying look so effortless – just marvelous.

You know what else is marvelous about this trip? Just having the time to stop and take it all in. I am reminded of the scripture – Be still and know that I am God. Psalm 46:10

The people we meet are like the ‘icing on the cake’ as we travel around the USA. They add richness and fullness to our days as we meet and share stories together. Having been on the road now for about 14 weeks we are not surprised but always excited when someone says hello and engages us in that first conversation.

baby Nicholas

So it was at Letchworth – we met a young family with seven (yes seven) children, the youngest was only 15 days old and it was his second camping trip since birth. Barb, his mom, brought Nicholas to visit us and I was able to give him lots of cuddles. The rest of family also came by – four more boys and two girls – they live in Canada and were making the most of the last few summer days before school started again. They will be looking for their photo so here it is!!

back - Steve, Craig, Larissa;
middle -Stephen, Jeffrey, Rachel, Barb, Nicholas
front - Derek 

We also met Janet from Pennsylvania and enjoyed a long visit with Randy and Kim who share our interest in the blues. Randy kept us enthralled as he told us about lots of performers and festivals they had been to. Maybe we will be able to continue that conversation if you guys ever get to Australia. Your dreams are ready when you are!

After a couple of very busy but enjoyable days we left Letchworth and drove back to Niagara Falls, where we caught up on the washing before going off to New York.

On our return from the Big Apple, Freddie the RV was waiting for us under Pete’s watchful eye. We spent a few more days in Niagara Falls on the USA side, taking in the sights and sounds of the Blues Festival. Johno will write about that so I will just share with you our final Niagara Falls experience which happened to be on my Aussie birthday.

We took a tour on the Maid of the Mist, a boat tour that takes you close to the American and Canadian Falls and is a real rush of fun. Only $13.50 and comes with complimentary plastic poncho which is a necessity if you don’t want to get too wet.

Heading up towards to Falls

Happy 55th Birthday

The boat ride goes past the American Falls, heads up into the Horseshoe, turns around and then comes back past the Am’n Falls again. The boat can carry up to 300 people but ours only had about 50 on board so there was plenty of room. We stood on the lower deck up the front. It was really exciting to be so near the falls, and hear the roar of the wind, feel the power of the water crashing and the mist on your face. So much fun J

Tried to capture the awesome power and volume of water
what do you think?

Before leaving the Falls we had one more stop, at the Observation Tower. Extending over the Niagara Gorge the tower has an observation deck that puts you way out over the water and gives uninterrupted views of the Horseshoe Falls. If you are afraid of heights, it would be a bit daunting but we loved it. So much beauty! I hope you like the pic’s.

 We wandered away from the falls, back up to listen to some blues and then went to the Seneca Casino for buffet lunch. Then it was back to the RV and off down the road, on our way south - finally leaving northern USA behind us.

We’ve been up in the north since mid-June, we are just over half- way through our trip and looking forward to some Southern hospitality.

What a journey!